The class sometimes starts at an easier ice wall near June Lake, but
unseasonably warm weather has caused that one to disintegrate, so
instruction is at the bigger frozen waterfall near the Tioga Road, just
south of the town of Lee Vining.
The approach to the ice is a fairly strenuous 45-minute hike up a box
canyon, with 800 feet of elevation gain. Here, water from natural
springs flowing out of porous talus rock freezes and forms walls of ice
up to 200 feet high. Because the ice is on the perpetually shaded north
side of the canyon it usually remains frozen all winter.
The two-day introductory class covers basic ice climbing techniques.
Ice climbers use the same harnesses and safety rope techniques as rock
climbers; rock-climbing experience is required for this class.
``There's a lot more to the learning curve if you don't have
rock-climbing skills,'' said Todd Vogel, 39, an instructor and co-owner
of Sierra Mountain Center in Bishop. ``And you don't want to stand
around in the cold learning how to put on your harness, tie onto the
rope and manage the safety system called belaying.
Helmets are mandatory. When climbers scale the ice cliffs they often
send down large pieces of ice, not just little cubes like from your
icemaker but some serious-sized chunks that can hurt. For this reason
belayers - who manage the safety rope protecting a climber in case of a
fall - stand to one side, not directly below the climbers.
What differentiates ice climbing from rock climbing is that tools -
crampons and ice axes - create grip on the ice.
If snowshoes are snow tires for your feet, crampons are four-wheel
drive low-range. These pointy beauties look like something the East
German villainess in a James Bond movie would strap onto her clogs and
use to ventilate 007 with a couple of well-placed kicks.
Sharpened ice axes looped to your wrists and hammered into the ice as
you climb provide additional balance and security.
The ice climbing protection system is different. Instead of placing
metal cams and wedges in cracks in rock, ice climbers drive metal screws
into the ice by hand and attach them to the rope with carabineers.
Before instruction starts, Vogel climbs kicking the front points of
his crampons into the ice and hammering his ice axes into the ice as he
scales the wall. He places ice screws and clips them to the rope as he
ascends. He then creates a ``top rope'' anchor with several ice screws.
``It's really surreal to be up on a frozen waterfall,'' Vogel said.
``The amazing shapes, colors and textures of the ice provides something
that's not otherwise climbable.''
Ice climbing is a two-fisted, two-footed endeavor. Women, who are
often better rock climbers than men because they rely on balance and
finesse rather than strength, don't kick or hammer hard enough into the
ice, Vogel said.
You don't want to waste energy kicking too hard, either. You want to
use a kick strong enough to to punt a Chihuahua, not a pit bull, says student
Tom Nardini. He's kidding, of course - he's really a dog lover.
Efficiency and energy management are the keys as in rock climbing.
Once you've reached your goal the belayer lowers you back to the ground.
Day two of the class covers movement on steeper terrain, placing and
removing ice screws, anchoring on ice and more practice.
The second day is very cold - about 15 degrees. This makes the ice
very brittle. When the climbers hammer an ice ax the ice splits and
cracks with a sound that echoes in the canyon.
``It was disconcerting when you'd hit the ice and hear it
fracturing,'' said Nardini, who is also an avid mountain biker.
Nardini and his climbing partner, Chris Valencia, both 39, have been
climbing rock for eight years, but this is their first experience
climbing ice.
``The second day was real exciting,'' Nardini said. His hands cramp
before he makes it to the top of a taller, steeper section of ice and he
has to descend.
There's a big difference between 70-degree angled ice and 85 degrees,
Vogel said. Climbing the steeper ice feels like you're climbing an
overhang and takes a lot out of the climber. You get ``pumped'' in
climber's vernacular- your muscles load up with blood and get very
fatigued.
Nardini makes it to the top on his second try. He's thrilled and
plans to get his own ice-climbing gear for more adventures.
``Many rock climbers want to add ice to their repertoire - with that
and some snow-travel training you can climb anything,'' Vogel said.
Next stop: Everest?
IF YOU CLIMB
Sierra Mountain Center in Bishop - (760) 873-8526 - offers two-day
introductory ice climbing classes, and advanced and private instruction.
The Introduction to Ice Climbing class is $310 with shared lodging,
$270 without lodging. Dates in 2003: Feb. 22-23, March 1-2 and 8-9.
Visit www.sierramountaincenter.com or e-mail
info@sierramountaincenter.com for more information.
Sierra Mountain Center also offers winter backcountry skiing,
mountain climbing and avalanche courses, and rock climbing instruction
and mountain guiding in the summer.
Sierra Mountain Center's lead guides are America Mountain Guides
Association (AMGA) certified. AMGA provides internationally recognized
training and certification for guides in three different disciplines:
rock, alpine and ski mountaineering.
